Friday, August 10, 2018

How I Painted the Ensorcelled Armoury.

Greetings and salutations fellow hobbyist!

Here is a guide how I painted the Ensorcelled Armoury from the Shattered Dominion Boxed Set.

Step 1.

First I drew up the base and the outline of the model to help me decide what I wanted to do.
After that I covered the base with Liquid Green Stuff to get a smooth surface for the Armageddon Dust and I painted the outer edges with Rhinox Hide.
I glued the completed model with superglue on to the base, just make sure when applying the Armageddon Dust that it is even enough so the model will stick to it and non would get on the model itself if I would have attached the model first.



Step 2.

Here comes the tricky part; picking out all the swords, axes, spears and what not with Leadbelcher. After that is done, 2 coats of Ironbreaker and a wash of Nuln Oil was applied. Carefully add layers of Ironbreaker and then a highlight of Runefang Steel. Finally I picked out all the rivets with Brass Scorpion, but you can also skip this one and leave it with Ironbreaker or use Runefang Steel to make them stand out a bit more.






Step 3.

I painted all the leather I could find with Rhinox hide, followed by Doombull Brown, washed with Druchii Violet (you can use Agrax Earthshade instead), then carefully re-applied Doombull Brown with a detail brush as there are some leather hilts that is weaved leather.

For the wooden hilts and shafts I used Dryad Bark, followed by Gothor Brown, washed with Agrax Earthshade, then followed with two coats of Gothor Brown and highlighted with Baneblade Brown.



 Step 4.

The Khorne shield was painted in the usual red colour, starting with Khorne Red, followed by a highlight of Evil Sunz Scarlet and then a recess shade with Carroburgh Crimson.

For the Mark of Khorne, I started with Screaming Skull, then a layer of Brass Scorpion and finally another layer of Skullcrusher Brass. Do not I did not add any highlight and note that Skullcrusher Brass separates very easily (at least mine done), so give it a good shake before using it.

 Step 5.

There are two Stormcast Ethernal shield on this model that I tried to paint like Celestial Vindicators but kinda painted parts of the shield in the wrong colours, I should have looked this up before starting.

I started with Macgragge Blue for the base, followed by two coats of Sotek Green and then a highlight of Temple Guard Blue. I used Coelia Greenshade as a recess shade.

For the Hammer with the twin tailed comet and some other smaller parts I used Retributor Gold as a base, followed with 2-3 coats of Liberator Gold, then a wash of Reikland Fleshshade (Gloss variant), then a careful application of Liberator Gold with a detail brush and finally a highlight of Auric Armour Gold.

There are other ways to paint gold, if you have a preferred way or selection of colours, go for it.

 Step 6.

There are few teeth on the Ork weapons that I coated with Zandri Dust, followed with Ushabti Bone, a careful wash of Agrax Earthshade, then a careful application of Ushabti Bone and a highlight of Screaming Skull. Leaving the part of the teeth with the shade on give a bit of depth to the teeth.

Step 7.

The Dwarf shield with the runes on it got some attention from me as I wanted it to stand out a bit.
I got some Celestra Gray and Lahmian Medium, mixed it about 60/40 so it would flow smoothly and note that this will take some time as the runes are small and the paint will need some time to dry.
Then I mixed some Guilliman Blue with a little Lahmian Medium, added it to the runes and remember to add as many layers as you need to get a good blue colour.
 
Step 8.

The last part was picking out the gem stones on the various items, I use Screaming Bell as a base, followed by Skullcrusher Brass, then carefully applied several coats of Spiritstone Red. The trick with this is to pull the Spiritstone Red upwards while starting at the bottom of the gem. There is a good video on Warhammer TV on how to apply this if you need something more visual.

There 2 tassels attached to the two spears, you can paint these any way you want, but I went for green on one and yellow on the other.


Step 9.

After the model has been coated with an varnish, applying some yellow looking grass is not a bad idea to make the base look less bare.

Below are a couple of pictures of the finished model.





Remember that experience is the only thing that can not be taught.

Friday, August 3, 2018

My Work Space.

Hey all.

I decided to make a small post about my work space and how I organize my paints and other related items.


I always keep the models that have yet to be coated in the back behind the models that are waiting for their paint to dry and the models I am yet to paint with the current colour on the right. I also organize the paints around the cutting mat in the order I will apply them. The two glasses filled with water are kept in the back, just to make sure I will not take a sip, a dropper bottle with Lahmian Medium is on the right of the water, with my paint brushes on the right of that, above the keyboard.

I have this rule that only the model I am currently painting, a palette, a paper towel and a paintbrush is the only thing in front of me.

I keep the colours I will not be using in a separate box along with my wet palette that is kept some where it is not getting in the way.



All the Citadel paints I am currently not using along with an empty dropper bottle.

All the P3 paints and various inks, shades, technical paints and what not.


Several containers with sand, grass, gravel and snow, along with pigments and the pigment binder.


Vallejo Water effects, some Ork glyphs, all kinds of grass and flock, super glue and my Citadel Palette Pad.



All kinds of tools.


And all of this stuff is kept in a shelf to my right within reach, just in case I need something.



Base Decorations or How I Make the Base Look Good!

Greetings and salutations fellow hobbyist!

Here is a guide on how I added decoration to the Hollowed Tomb and Realmvault Key.

Step 1.

I picked out skulls and some greenery from the Citadel Skulls, Barbed Bracken and Creeping Vines boxes.

I cut the pieces from the Barbed Bracken diagonally from either side with cutters to fit it better to the base. 

I used blu tack to attach the items on a back of a ice cream box to add black primer, then used to super glue to attach it to the bases.






Step 2.

Before I started painting I asked myself if I could describe this is a single word, I came up with "uncanny" and thus I decided to go with purples as greenery is generally not purple and it fits with the rest of the model and base.

I picked out several leaves to paint in Daemonette Hide followed by a wash of Drucchi Violet, then some more Daemonette Hide on the raised areas and finally some Warpfiend Gray and little highlight with Slannesh Gray.






Step 3.

I went for Naggorth Night as a base for the other leaves, followed by Genestealer Purple and a wash of Drucchi Violet. After that a careful coat of Genestealer Purple was applied and a highlight of Pink Horror. Note that Genestealer Purple tends to be very thick and I'll recommend diluting with Lahmian Medium or water to get it flow better.



Step 4.

I wanted the branch of the tree to have muted colour and thus went for a base coat of Dryad Bark followed by a careful coat of Gothor Brown.

Step 5.

I painted the leaves on the branch with Averland Sunset and washed the entire branch with Agrax Earthshade. After the shade was dry, I took Averland Sunset and diluted it almost to a wash and painted two coats over the leaves so they will turn out somewhat like dead leaves. I used Tau Light Ochre and Zamesi Desert to add discoloured spots on the leaves with a very fine brush.

Finally I used Gothor Brown and Tallarn Sand to bring the branch itself out a bit.





Step 6.

For the skulls on the Hollowed Tomb I used Zandri Dust as a base coat, followed by Ushabti Bone and then a wash of Agrax Earthshade while being careful with pooling.

After the shade has dried, I used Ushabti Bone again to get the bone colour back and followed by a sparse highlight of Screaming Skull. Note that adding Lahmian Medium to the Ushabti Bone for the second coat will give you a smooth finish.




Step 7.

Here is a picture of the finish models. you can apply some flock or tufts of grass after applying a coat of varnish on the model. 




Remember that experience is the only thing that can not be taught.