How I Painted the Ensorcelled Armoury.

Greetings and salutations fellow hobbyist!

Here is a guide how I painted the Ensorcelled Armoury from the Shattered Dominion Boxed Set.

Step 1.

First I drew up the base and the outline of the model to help me decide what I wanted to do.
After that I covered the base with Liquid Green Stuff to get a smooth surface for the Armageddon Dust and I painted the outer edges with Rhinox Hide.
I glued the completed model with superglue on to the base, just make sure when applying the Armageddon Dust that it is even enough so the model will stick to it and non would get on the model itself if I would have attached the model first.

Step 2.

Here comes the tricky part; picking out all the swords, axes, spears and what not with Leadbelcher. After that is done, 2 coats of Ironbreaker and a wash of Nuln Oil was applied. Carefully add layers of Ironbreaker and then a highlight of Runefang Steel. Finally I picked out all the rivets with Brass Scorpion, but you can also skip this one and leave it with Ironbreaker or use Runefang Steel to make them stand out a bit more.

Step 3.

I painted all the leather I could find with Rhinox hide, followed by Doombull Brown, washed with Druchii Violet (you can use Agrax Earthshade instead), then carefully re-applied Doombull Brown with a detail brush as there are some leather hilts that is weaved leather.

For the wooden hilts and shafts I used Dryad Bark, followed by Gothor Brown, washed with Agrax Earthshade, then followed with two coats of Gothor Brown and highlighted with Baneblade Brown.

 Step 4.

The Khorne shield was painted in the usual red colour, starting with Khorne Red, followed by a highlight of Evil Sunz Scarlet and then a recess shade with Carroburgh Crimson.

For the Mark of Khorne, I started with Screaming Skull, then a layer of Brass Scorpion and finally another layer of Skullcrusher Brass. Do not I did not add any highlight and note that Skullcrusher Brass separates very easily (at least mine done), so give it a good shake before using it.

 Step 5.

There are two Stormcast Ethernal shield on this model that I tried to paint like Celestial Vindicators but kinda painted parts of the shield in the wrong colours, I should have looked this up before starting.

I started with Macgragge Blue for the base, followed by two coats of Sotek Green and then a highlight of Temple Guard Blue. I used Coelia Greenshade as a recess shade.

For the Hammer with the twin tailed comet and some other smaller parts I used Retributor Gold as a base, followed with 2-3 coats of Liberator Gold, then a wash of Reikland Fleshshade (Gloss variant), then a careful application of Liberator Gold with a detail brush and finally a highlight of Auric Armour Gold.

There are other ways to paint gold, if you have a preferred way or selection of colours, go for it.

 Step 6.

There are few teeth on the Ork weapons that I coated with Zandri Dust, followed with Ushabti Bone, a careful wash of Agrax Earthshade, then a careful application of Ushabti Bone and a highlight of Screaming Skull. Leaving the part of the teeth with the shade on give a bit of depth to the teeth.

Step 7.

The Dwarf shield with the runes on it got some attention from me as I wanted it to stand out a bit.
I got some Celestra Gray and Lahmian Medium, mixed it about 60/40 so it would flow smoothly and note that this will take some time as the runes are small and the paint will need some time to dry.
Then I mixed some Guilliman Blue with a little Lahmian Medium, added it to the runes and remember to add as many layers as you need to get a good blue colour.

 

Step 8.

The last part was picking out the gem stones on the various items, I use Screaming Bell as a base, followed by Skullcrusher Brass, then carefully applied several coats of Spiritstone Red. The trick with this is to pull the Spiritstone Red upwards while starting at the bottom of the gem. There is a good video on Warhammer TV on how to apply this if you need something more visual.

There 2 tassels attached to the two spears, you can paint these any way you want, but I went for green on one and yellow on the other.

Step 9.

After the model has been coated with an varnish, applying some yellow looking grass is not a bad idea to make the base look less bare.

Below are a couple of pictures of the finished model.

Remember that experience is the only thing that can not be taught.